"How to build a kegerator" FAQ

I get quite a few questions in e-mail about the kegerator I built (documented with photos here), so I thought it was time to throw a FAQ together. Here it is:

1. What model refrigerator did you use?

   I used the Sanyo 4910M, but the 4911M (a more recent model) is the same, at least for kegerator purposes. As of this writing, it looks like Sanyo has gone to the 4912M, which looks the same kegerator-wise as the prior two models.

2. Did you remove the freezer portion?

   No -- the nice thing about the Sanyo 4910M or 4911M is that there is no freezer portion. It's all refrigerator.

3. What are the dimensions of your kegerator?

   It's 4.9 cubic feet and 21 3/8'' x 33 3/4'' x 22 3/4' (W x H x D)

4. Can you fit a 1/4 barrel (or "pony keg") in the Sanyo?

   I've never attempted this, but there's a thread over at the Northern Brewer forums that suggests that you can.

5. My brother-in-law gave me an old refrigerator and I'm thinking of drilling a hole in it for a tap and making my own kegerator. What do you think?

   First, beware of brothers-in-law bearing gifts. He might just be trying to pass the dumping cost over to you. When drilling a fridge, be careful. The cooling coils inside the fridge run in different places on different fridges, and the trick is drilling without hitting them. I used the Sanyo because it was relatively well-documented. I don't actually know what happens when you hit a cooling line in a fridge. It can't be good.

6. I notice you have an external thermostat on your kegerator. Does this just tell you what the temperature is or does it actually control the temp? How important is it to have?

   First, the external thermostat I use is the Ranco Electronic Temperature Controller, found here. It works really well. This thermostat tells you what the temperature is inside and also controls the temperature. It tells you the temperature via a wire sensor that you leave in the refrigerator (when the door closes, the wire is thin enough that the fridge will still close). To control the temperature, you plug the refrigerator into the thermostat and plug the thermostat into the wall. Think of the thermostat as an extension cord that knows when to turn the fridge on and off to keep it at the right temperature that it reads via the wire sensor attached to it (you just keep the fridge on the coldest setting the whole time).

   Keeping the temperature at a certain level is important in home brewing because it affects the level of carbonation. Basically, when you force carbonate using a CO2 tank, you set the pressure on your kegs based on the temperature of the beer and what level of carbonation you want (stout is less carbonated than pale ale, for example). After the beer is carbonated, you also want to keep the CO2 pressure at a certain level when you're dispensing it, or you will carbonate the beer more, or maybe let it go flat. (If all this sounds complicated, it's a lot less complicated than it sounds.)

7. The kegs in your kegerator look odd. What are they?

   The kegs are "soda kegs" (because they are the same kind used to dispense soda), sometimes called "Cornelius" or "corny" kegs. You can get these kegs at most home brew shops or order them online. Don't buy new kegs -- you will be wasting your money. The used ones are fine.

8. What different configurations can you fit inside your kegerator?

   I have only ever set up my system in three ways:

   1. two 5 gallon soda kegs with an extra-small CO2 tank (I think about 2 lb. -- but not 100% sure) in the door of the fridge. This small tank was more expensive than the typical 5 lb. tank but it allows me to keep the CO2 inside with the two kegs.

   2. one 5 gallon keg with a 5 lb. CO2 tank inside

   3. one 5 gallon commercial keg with a 5 lb. CO2 tank inside. The 5 gallon commercial kegs I've tried are just slightly shorter and wider than the Corny keg, but enough that you can't put two of them in the kegerator (or even a commercial keg and a Corny keg).

   Of course, you could drill a hole somewhere in the fridge and supply the CO2 from the outside, but I haven't attempted that. I don't think it's difficult. I just like mine to be self-contained because it looks less messy in the kitchen.

   One other consideration is that you need different fittings for your tap if you use a commercial keg, usually a "Sankey" tap. This is the kind of tap you're probably used to with commercial kegs. I bought the Perlick Low Profile System "D" Low-Boy tap for this purpose because space is tight. If you get a regular Sankey tap, it might be too tall to fit.

9. What size hole cutter did you use to drill the hole for the tap? What size drill bit did you use? What kind of sealant?

   Size of the hole cutter: you know, I don't quite remember, but it was the kind you would use to cut a hole in a door for a doorknob. Really, the hole only needs to be big enough to push the two beer lines through it (if you have a dual tap. . . and you should!)

   Drill bit: I used a bit that was slightly smaller than the screws I was using (can't remember exactly)

   The sealant was clear silicone. Since it's hidden from view, I think you could use just about anything.

10. My question is regarding sealing the wood to the top of the fridge. In your documentation it shows you sealing the wood to the plastic, but are you also applying sealant to the wood block that would seal it to the metal top of the fridge?

    Yes, I used the sealant liberally on both sides of the wood.

11. Where did you get that awesome double tap?

    I got the double tap from the Oak Barrel, my local homebrew store here in Berkeley, CA. The tap itself is pretty standard, but the handles are what makes it special. You can buy handles like mine at northernbrewer.com. Take a look at this page. . . . and look for "Changeable-Label Tap Handles".

12. How much money did all the materials cost?

    About $350 (fridge, tap, tap handles, drip tray). But drilling a hole in a refrigerator was a priceless experience.